Turbo grande.
Step by step.

Pull the tail lights

Cada luz trasera está sujeta por dos tornillos y un clip en la parte trasera. Sácalos completamente. Colgando de sus cables, golpean contra los guardafangos, y así es como se rompen.

Remove the rear muffler fascia

Cuatro tornillos Torx T30: uno en el centro, uno en el lado opuesto y dos a lo largo de la parte inferior. Con esos quitados, la fascia se quita.

Quita la cama

On each fender, remove the five Torx T30 screws and their push-pin retainers. Now the fenders flex out far enough to reach the main bed support bolts: two per side, each with a nut on the back. With those out, lift the bed straight off.

A second set of hands keeps the bed from scraping the cage on the way off.

Limpia la bahía del motor antes de que nada se abra

With the bed off you can see how much dirt lives around the turbo. Blow it out and wipe it down before you loosen a single line. Once the turbo comes off, the intake and exhaust ports are open, and anything that falls in goes into the engine.

Don’t skip this one. If you can’t get it clean, button it back up and have a shop do the swap. Dirt in an open port is how a turbo upgrade turns into an engine rebuild.

Unclip the coolant reservoir

Push in the reservoir’s tabs and lift it free so it’s clear of the intercooler.

Unbolt the intercooler

Remove the two bolts on each side, then the Torx T30s. The T30s have washers, so keep track of them and don’t drop them into the bay. Two more bolts come out from inside the cab, one each side.

Disconnect everything under the intercooler

Lift the charge tube off its hook and unplug the intercooler fan. Loosen the charge-pipe clamps on both sides. Can-Am uses an odd size here: a 7 mm nut driver is the right tool. If your clutch cover ducting is still on, take it off too.

Free the boost control solenoid, then lift the intercooler out

One thing still holds the intercooler: the electronic boost control solenoid, clipped on underneath. Most people don’t know it’s there and break it pulling the intercooler. Release its clip first. You’re installing new boost line, so the old lines can be cut.

With the charge pipes, ducting and bolts off, the intercooler lifts out. Feel around for one last hang-up before you pull.

Release the solenoid clip before you pull. This is the part that breaks.

Remove the exhaust

Unhook the springs with a spring tool; they’re strong and close to your face. Remove the 13 mm bolts below. Unplug the O2 sensor at its connector, loosen the downpipe V-band clamp under its heat shield (11 mm), and pop the V-band seal loose with a pry bar.

Swap the tee for the straight coupler

Find the bag marked coolant bypass kit. At the bottom of the coolant tank is a tee that feeds the turbo. Replace the tee with the straight coupler from the kit so coolant runs straight through.

Plug the turbo coolant hose

The second piece is a length of heater hose with a crimped plug in one end. It’s a very tight fit on purpose. Spread the open end with pliers, warm it with a heat gun, put a drop of oil inside, then push it on.

Before you clamp it, look at the barb: there’s a bulge where it flares. Push the hose far enough past that bulge that the clamp band has a straight run of hose to bite on.

Heat and a drop of oil turn this from a fight into a thirty-second job.

Take the oil lines off the turbo

The feed on top is a banjo fitting, 17 mm. It should crack loose easily. There are two copper washers; keep both. The oil drain line comes off from inside the cab.

Unbolt and remove the turbo

The turbo-to-head fasteners are 10 mm and also take a Torx T40; a T40 bit on an impact makes quick work of them. Take the hardest-to-reach ones out first while you still have room. The last ones out are always the hardest when you’re also holding the turbo.

Install the braided oil feed at the oil pressure sensor

The kit’s 16-inch stainless braided feed takes its oil from the same place the factory turbo does: the oil pressure sensor, which is a banjo bolt with two copper washers.

1. Remove the oil pressure sensor. Keep both copper washers.
2. Stack it back: sensor, copper washer, the feed line’s banjo, then the second copper washer against the case.
3. Thread it back into the same hole. Point the −4 AN fitting straight up and hold it there while you tighten.
4. Plug the sensor back in.

Light torque. It takes a couple of fingers on the wrench. Break the sensor off in the case and a turbo swap becomes an engine job.

Pre-route the feed line

The line runs straight up, loops around and lands on top of the turbo. Shape it now, while there’s open space. A twisted line won’t sit where it needs to once the turbo is in.

Install the header studs

Thread the kit’s M8 × 40 mm studs into the head at the exhaust flange before the turbo goes on.

Put the 45° drain fitting on at the bench

The kit’s 45° −10 AN oil drain fitting goes on easiest with the turbo on the bench. Thread it on snug and angle it parallel to the bottom-corner flange bolt. Set that way, the drain line slips right on once the turbo is mounted.

Mount the turbo

Use the gasket supplied with the turbo. With the studs in, only a few threads show past the flange. Start each bottom nut by one or two threads, then inch the turbo onto the head, taking more thread as it seats, until it’s fully home. That’s the way it goes on without a fight.

Before it goes on, look into the exhaust port and the turbo inlet one last time. Anything loose in there is headed for the turbine wheel.

This is the hardest part of the job. Take your time with it.

Remove the downpipe support bracket

Your new exhaust needs the room. Two ways to do it:

• Cut it off with a cut-off wheel. Quickest, and what we’d do on our own machine.
• Unbolt it: remove the cover (two bolts), cut the zip ties to free the back piece, remove the two 10 mm bolts from the front side, then the two 13 mm bolts on the bracket.

The bracket also held the plastic hose cover. Zip-tie the hoses to the backing piece and put the cover back on; it holds everything tight and protected.

Mount and plumb the boost control solenoid

Mount it up underneath with the connector facing the back of the vehicle. Then three barbs:

• The barb that comes straight down at 90° goes to the wastegate on the turbo.
• El metal barb above the connector goes to the boost source: the barb already on the compressor housing.
• El third barb, opposite the connector, vents to atmosphere. Put a short piece of hose on it to keep dirt out and leave it open.

Running the full kit with the Packard plenum? The vacuum-line map below shows every line.