The Packard supercharger kit for the Yamaha YXZ 1000R, start to finish: teardown, plenum, crank pulley shaft, the supercharger and belt, boost control, fuel and the first start. Every photo from our instructions, and the install video chaptered to the steps.
Watch it
The video is silent on purpose: every card in it is in the steps below, with more detail. Tap a chapter to jump.
Before you start
A helper for the crank bolt and for mounting the supercharger.
AFR and boost gauges are optional, and we recommend both.
The install
Check each one off as you go; this page remembers where you are on this device.
ECU, oil, the stock air box and the smog system.
The supercharger runs on a Packard flash of your stock ECU. Remove the center console cover by sliding it back and up, then carefully unplug the ECU from its harness.
Start an ECU send-in and ship it to us; the form gives you the address and a packing slip. Tell us the exact machine (year and model) and list your mods: exhaust, injectors, cams.
Pull the ECU first: the rest of the install can happen while it’s being flashed.
Drain the oil from the bottom of the oil tank as usual. Loosen the four hose clamps on the oil lines with pliers and pull each line off its port; expect more oil from the lower one.
Remove the two 10 mm bolts holding the oil-line support bracket to the motor mount. Thread both bolts back into their holes for now: they get reused on the supercharger mount. Remove both lines and the bracket.
Have an oil pan and plenty of rags under it.
Loosen the hose clamps holding the air box to the manifold and disconnect the smog line, the idle air control (IAC) line and the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor connector.
Two 10 mm bolts hold the air box to the body. One is easy from the rear; the other hides between the air box and the seats. Reach it from the passenger side with a long extension.
Lift the air box out through the top of the bed. It’s a tight fit, but it comes out. Move the IAT sensor from the air box back onto its harness and tie it somewhere out of the way, clear of engine heat.
On each of the three intake manifold boots, remove the bolt from the hose clamp on the bottom (engine side), swap the spacer for the smaller one in the kit, then reinstall the bolt and tighten.
On the driver’s side of the engine, find the two smog valves and remove the two bolts holding each. Unplug the harness and pull the whole smog pump assembly off its frame mount. Remove only the external valve ports and leave everything underneath in place. Install the smog plates with the same bolts.
While you’re there: just above the plates are two 10 mm bolts on the ignition coils. Remove them, set the plenum support mount base in place, and install it with the new bolts from the kit.
Loosen the clamps on the loose ends of the plenum’s silicone boots. (Or fit the boots to the intake manifold first, then slip the plenum onto them. Either way works.) Point the plenum inlet toward the passenger side, guide each boot onto its manifold boot and tighten.
Connect the IAC tube to the small boot on the plenum. Keep the hose clamps clear of the throttle-cable linkage on the throttle bodies.
The third port on the plenum is for a boost gauge. Running one? Leave it open for the boost line. Not running one? Make sure it’s plugged.
Check that no hose clamp touches the throttle-cable linkage.
The support rod runs from the bridge on the plenum to the triangular mount you installed on the ignition coils. Connect both rod ends, then twist the rod to tighten. Set it so it pulls the plenum in slightly: a little tension toward the head is what you want.
Route both new oil lines as shown and tighten. If a line is hard to push on, put a little engine oil inside the port to lubricate it.
Don’t tear the inner rubber lining pressing the lines onto the barbs. A torn liner is a leak you find later.
Remove the black plastic cover with a 10 mm Allen to expose the crank bolt. With a helper under the machine holding the driveshaft still with a pry bar in the U-joint, break the crank bolt loose with a 19 mm socket and breaker bar. Keep the washer: it gets reused.
Don’t put the pulley on yet.
There’s rarely room for a torque wrench here. If one fits, use it. If not, tighten it about as hard as it was to break loose, and err on tight.
Remove the 13 mm pivot bolt on the belt tensioner. Under the tensioner is a guide pin, and the support has two holes it can sit in. Put the pin in the hole closer to the supercharger, so the tensioner points farther away, and retighten.
Then remove the supercharger mounting bracket from the assembly: four 12 mm bolts.
On the motor mount where the oil-line bracket was, remove the two bolts in the center slot that go into the block. Set the supercharger mount in that slot and fasten it with the two bolts that came with the mount. Then put the two bolts that held the oil-line bracket into their matching holes on the mount. Tighten all four.
One person holds the supercharger against the mount while the other starts the four 12 mm bolts that hold the assembly to it. Tighten them evenly, checking that the supercharger and tensioner sit square.
Snug and even, by hand. Don’t impact these.
Hold the crank pulley at the bottom of the belt with its flat side facing you. Set the belt on it with the ribs lined up, not crossed (the belt isn’t directional). Put the top of the belt on the supercharger pulley and keep tension on it by pulling the crank pulley toward the shaft.
Put a 3/8” breaker bar in the square hole on the tensioner with the handle pointing right, push down to move the tensioner, and slide the pulley (still in the belt) onto the shaft. Turn it until the six bolt holes line up, then ease off the tensioner.
Install the six pulley bolts in a star pattern, like lug nuts: tight, but not crazy tight. They’re usually 10 mm; some early shafts were threaded SAE and take 3/8”.
After the first rides, look at the belt. Belts stretch a little. If it ever rubs on itself, move the arm and tensioner closer to the crank pulley; both the tensioner’s two mounting points and the billet arm adjust.
Loosen each T-bolt clamp until it barely holds its spot. Route the tubes and twist them into position. A little glass cleaner helps silicone slide into place.
Running an intercooler? The plenum-side tube is longer and rotated to run up into the intercooler’s bottom outlet, and a separate tube runs from the supercharger to the intercooler’s top.
On the driver’s side of the intake manifold, near the bottom of the rear cylinder, remove the smog-system tube there. Connect the end of the solenoid tubing to that fitting, connect the original tube to the bottom of the tee on the solenoid tubing, and run the remaining end to the supercharger’s blow-off valve.
Plug the solenoid into the harness connector that used to go to the smog pump.
Packard has shipped two versions of this. Kits with no solenoid plumb the blow-off valve straight from the MAP-sensor line: pull the OEM MAP-sensor line off the back of the throttle body, and with the supplied tee and line, run a line from that same port to the blow-off valve on top of the supercharger.
Whichever version you have, make sure the MAP sensor line is plumbed back in. Miss it and the ECU is flying blind.
The fuel controller ties into each injector: unplug the injector, put the controller’s harness on the injector, and plug the original connector into the other end of the new harness. Repeat for the other two.
Ground the black wire (to the battery). The white wire with the harness doesn’t connect to anything. Zip-tie the unit to the air filter bracket or another solid spot.
Ordered a Power Commander with your kit? It replaces this controller and comes with its own instructions.
Install the air box support bracket from the frame crossmember to the nearest center bolt under the bed. Set the air box in place, connect the tube to the supercharger, then strap the air box to the bracket with the large band clamp. Zip-tie the boost control solenoid to the bracket too.
With the air box in and every charge tube routed, tighten all the T-bolt clamps, checking that each connection is on straight and flush. Point the rubber dust vent on the end of the filter box down so dust drops out instead of collecting.
Check the drain plug has its washer and is in straight and snug; it strips easily. Add two quarts, check, add a little, check again. Change the filter if it was due.
Plug the flashed ECU back into its harness and refit the console cover.
Start it and listen: the engine should turn over smooth with no drag. Check that both pulleys turn and the belt is tight. Stop the engine, recheck the oil and top it off.
Then watch the gauges on the first pulls. Air/fuel should land around 11.5–12.5:1, and never leaner than 13.0:1 at wide-open throttle. If it reads leaner, add fuel to the top end on the fuel controller before you lean on it. Boost stays at or under 5 psi on stock internals with the #1 pulley.
The numbers
From the Packard kit instructions and the install video.
If air/fuel reads leaner than 13.0:1 at wide-open throttle, add fuel to the top end on the fuel controller (or your Power Commander) before you ride it hard.
Belts stretch a little with use. If the belt ever rubs on itself, move the arm and tensioner closer to the crank pulley. The tensioner has two mounting points and the billet arm rotates for fine adjustment.
Questions
Keep it at 4–5 psi or less. The kit instructions are clear: past that on stock internals, engine damage is likely. That’s the #1 pulley.
95 ft-lbs, with red thread locker on the new bolt. There usually isn’t room for a torque wrench, so tighten it about as hard as it was to break loose, and err on tight.
Around 11.5–12.5:1, and never leaner than 13.0:1 at wide-open throttle. If it reads leaner, add fuel to the top end on the fuel controller.
Yes. The kit runs on a Packard flash of your stock ECU. Start an ECU send-in at packardperformance.com/ecu; you can do the rest of the install while it’s here.
Packard has shipped two versions. One uses a boost control solenoid on the old smog-pump connector; the other plumbs the blow-off valve from the MAP-sensor line with a tee. Both are in step 15.
Yes. If you ordered one with the kit, it replaces the fuel controller and comes with its own instructions.
Tell us your machine, the step number and what you’re seeing. The shop answers by email, usually the same day.
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