The Packard supercharger kit for the Polaris RZR Pro R, from the kit on the bench to belt tension: the head unit, the mount, intake and charge air, the oiling system that has to be right, and the torque numbers that matter. Our quick-guide video, chaptered to every step.
Watch it
Tap a chapter and the player jumps to it; every step below also has its own watch button.
Before you start
The install
Check each one off as you go; this page remembers where you are on this device.
Spread every component on a table before you touch the machine, so you know what you have and where it goes. Plan for parts that come off and don’t go back on: the OEM belt, the alternator belt cover and a few others that will be obvious once you’re in there.
Pulling the bed isn’t required, but it opens the engine bay up and makes the rest of the job much easier.
Install the pulley shaft with the supplied M6 bolts, then fit the snout and torque its fasteners to the same spec.
Never turn the supercharger backward. The internal pulley must not rotate opposite its running direction; best practice is not to rotate it at all during assembly. Reverse rotation damages the supercharger.
Remove the tensioner section from its bracket along with the three OEM bolts that pass through it. Reinstall the bracket with those bolts snug only.
You need the play: the supercharger, mount and front plates all have to be coaxed into line, and nothing lines up if this is torqued early. Final-torque it to factory spec once everything is together.
Start every fastener on every side before you tighten anything. Tighten one early and you’ll be taking it back off.
With everything aligned, torque the front plates, the supercharger and the mount-to-engine-mount hardware. Then install the belt tensioner assembly. Tensioning the belt comes later, in step 16.
The kit moves the reservoir slightly to the left. Unbolt it top and bottom, then bolt the relocation bracket into the hole the old bolt came out of. Mount the reservoir to that bracket, front bolt first.
The upper tab now sits in a new spot: drill a pilot hole with a 13/64” bit and reuse the OEM self-tapping screw.
Unbolt the OEM MAP sensor and bolt the kit’s sensor in its place. A straight swap.
Swap the OEM rubber manifold between the throttle body and the intake plenum for the supplied one.
Change the bolt here. The OEM bolt at this spot is longer, and once the kit shortens the distance between throttle body and plenum it hits the throttle body. Use the shorter bolt from the kit.
The upper mount clamps to the upper frame tube, and the intercooler bolts to that mount. Fit the frame mount first, then set the intercooler on it.
Pulling the clutch piping buys useful clearance. Removing the shock gives you more, but it isn’t necessary.
With the wastegate installed, run the supplied blue silicone line from the wastegate’s boost port to the throttle body, routed as in the video.
Lower charge tube first, then the upper.
Keep a spray bottle of glass cleaner on the bench and mist the silicone bends and couplers. They slide on and off far more easily: worth it everywhere, essential on the air filter tube.
The part that ends superchargers when it’s done wrong.
Build the reservoir, oil cooler and rear mount as one assembly on the bench. Snug the fasteners that locate the assembly to itself and leave the rest loose; you’ll need that adjustment once it’s in the machine.
Red thread locker on both brackets. Pull the OEM bolt for the bracket and reuse it with red thread locker; the supplied bolt gets it too. This assembly cannot vibrate loose.
Mount the front bracket to the frame first. Slide the oil-system assembly in and rest it on that bracket, then torque the retaining bolt. Finish the rest of the cooler hardware once it’s located.
These strip easily. Torque wrench, not feel and never an impact.
The oil-line routing is in the instruction sheet packed in the supercharger box, and it isn’t optional reading. The plumbing runs clockwise. Follow the diagram exactly as printed.
Every plumbing decision, fluid fill and priming step comes from the supercharger maker’s sheet. Don’t improvise and don’t work from memory of another build.
Fill the supercharger with the oil its instructions specify, then run the maker’s initial start-up procedure: the defined process that moves fluid from the reservoir up into the supercharger. It happens before you crank the engine.
Cranking a dry supercharger is the one mistake on this install you can’t undo. Prime first. Every time.
You need a 22 mm socket and a T40 Torx: the socket puts tension on the belt, the Torx locks it.
The kit in this video runs a ProEFI. If your kit came with a Packard tune for your stock ECU instead, skip this step and follow the tune steps that came with your order.
Torque reference
From the on-screen specification cards in the Packard quick-guide video.
Questions
No, but it opens the engine bay up and makes the rest of the job much easier.
Never backward. Reverse rotation damages the supercharger, so the best practice is not to rotate it at all during assembly.
The supercharger, mount and front plates have to be coaxed into line. Torque anything early and nothing lines up. Final-torque once everything is together.
Whatever the instruction sheet in the supercharger box specifies, with its initial start-up procedure, before the engine ever cranks.
80–100 ft-lbs applied with a 22 mm socket, held while you tighten the two M8 Torx jam bolts to 16 ft-lbs each.
Then skip the ECU step in the video and follow the tune steps that came with your order. Changing fuel or boost later? That’s the second supercharger tune.
Tell us your machine, the step number and what you’re seeing. The shop answers by email, usually the same day.