Supercharger Xpedition.
Every step.

Pull the ECU and send it in first

Do this before anything else, so the tune isn’t what holds up the build. The ECU is under the rear seat on the driver’s side:

1. Pull the middle seat cushion straight out.
2. Quita los pasadores de empuje y levanta la cubierta.
3. Back out the Torx screws holding the ECU, unclip the connector and lift it out.

Then start your send-in, imprime el formulario y envía la ECU (solo el módulo, nunca el arnés) a Clearfield.

Tu ECU suele llegar antes que el kit. Si elegiste Precarga, your stock tune stays active and you flash the supercharger tune yourself after the install (Aquí está cómo). Si elegiste Flash now, it comes back with the supercharger tune active, so leave the machine parked until the kit is on.

Know which Xpedition you have

The kit fits the XP5 and the ADV5, and the bed is the difference:

• Truck-bed style: tilt the bed up and install the kit with the bed on.
• ADV: the whole bed has to come off. Plan on about four more hours of labor.

The machine in the video is an ADV, so you’ll see the full teardown.

Lay the whole kit out on a table

Saca todo del cuadro y extiéndelo sobre una mesa, para que sepas que lo tienes todo y puedas alcanzarlo rápidamente.

Follow the Polaris service manual for removing and reinstalling every OEM part. The kit steps below pick up where the manual leaves off.

Corta el tubo de plástico largo

One plastic tube runs all the way across the machine. The only ways to get it out are to take a lot of the machine apart or to cut it, and it isn’t reused. Cut it with a reciprocating saw and pull the pieces.

Te ahorra mucho tiempo. El tubo no vuelve a entrar.

What comes off and stays off

With the machine torn down, here’s the pile of OEM parts you won’t reuse, including both halves of that tube. Set them aside; none of it goes back in.

Air filter tube off: where the supercharger goes

Remove the OEM air filter tube. That opens up the space where the supercharger mounts.

Swap the MAP sensor and injectors

Install the kit’s 3-bar MAP sensor and Bosch 1000cc injectors in place of the OEM parts. Both are straight swaps.

Install the rear pulley and torque the bolt

Remove the bolt, then fit the rear pulley portion. This bolt seals oil, so it gets silicone, not thread locker: a bead on both sides of the pulley and on the bolt flange.

Torque it to 133 ft-lbs.

The engine will try to turn as you go up to 133. Put a pry bar in the clutch to hold it.

Silicone, not thread locker, and plenty of it. This bolt keeps engine oil in.

Mount the supercharger head unit

Remove the plate from the head unit. Its hardware and pulleys go back on exactly the way they came off.

Four M6 bolts hold the head unit: red thread locker on the threads, torqued to 7 ft-lbs with a 4 mm Allen.

Leave every oil line attached and fully tight on the head unit. They’re hard to reach once it’s installed.

Fit the charge tube

Mount the charge tube on the head unit and tuck it down and across, as in the video.

Install the front pulley portion

Bolt on the front portion of the pulley with its M6 bolts. Same as the head unit: red thread locker, 7 ft-lbs.

Corta el soporte de goma

Before the air filter tube goes in, cut off the small rubber mount that would push on it. A fresh razor blade goes right through it.

Shorten the crankcase breather hose

Trim the crankcase breather hose so it doesn’t kink where it plugs into the air filter tube. In the video that’s about five inches.

Pull the rear skid plate

Take off the rear portion of the skid plate. That’s how you reach the clamps under the machine, where the air filter tube and charge tube attach to the supercharger.

Finish the pulley assembly

With the full pulley assembly in place, the through-bolts take nylon locking nuts on the back side.

Mount the oiling system

The oil system mounts with its filter, the reservoir and the hand primer, with the line coming up from the bottom. The oil lines come pre-installed the way they should be run, so keep them that way.

Route the intake

The air filter tube runs across into the supercharger. The silicone U-bend goes on with the OEM clamps reused. Once the OEM piece is off, the intake no longer ties into the clutching; it feeds the air box from here. Watch this step for the routing.

Route the belt

The supercharger belt wraps around the back pulley, under the idler and all the way forward. You can change it without unbolting anything: put a 1/2” ratchet in the tensioner, pull the tension off, and the belt slips off and back on.

Fill the reservoir

Use the funnel that comes with the kit to fill the reservoir with Rotrex traction fluid (SX150 in the video) close to the top. It’s expensive, so don’t spill it, and keep whatever’s left in case you need to top off.

Prime it before the engine starts

Pump the primer 7 to 10 times to push oil through the lines. You’ll feel it get stiffer as pressure builds.

Never start the engine with a dry supercharger. Fill and prime it first, every time it’s been drained.

First start: check the oil running

1. Start it and watch for oil to reach the sight glass.
2. With it running, pull the dipstick, wipe it, screw it all the way back in.
3. Pull it again and read the level. A little high is fine; it may spit a little out. Low, top it off.

Read the supercharger booklet

The Rotrex booklet in the box covers priming, ongoing maintenance and checking the oil level. It answers anything the video doesn’t.